![]() What would you be doing in the situation? I have my local shop on call as a absolute worst case scenario. I’m willing to buy an extractor set and drill bits and go to town, If that’s the best possible solution for this issue. So what I’m asking is what would be the best possible attack on this without damaging any threads or the caliper bracket or anything like that? So as I stand now, I can’t get the rotor or caliper bracket off to replace the parking brake hardware and shoes because I can’t get the caliper bracket bolt out to remove the caliper and the bracket So far so good but the last bolt of the job, a 14 mm caliper bracket bolt snapped as I was tightening it down … I could only think because I was getting tired and I decided to put a extension pipe on the tool and it gave me way too much leverage. I was going to work in steps, do all the brakes first then re-attack the rear parking brakes a day or two later. When tightening the two bolts holding the brake caliper to the knuckle/hub, one of the bolts broke off. Remember many small steps to success is better than one giant leap to failure.Long story short I upgraded the brakes rotors pads and was going to replace all the hardware/shoes in the parking brake system. I actually had a wheel nut take the force of a 13 stone man standing on a 4′ breaker and not move, when this method was used the nut started and screwed off by hand. 0:00 / 22:45 Brake Caliper Slide Bolt Extraction How To briansmobile1 437K subscribers Subscribe 361K views 9 years ago You can buy the torch used in the video here. ![]() ![]() Its like an easy out that fits over a broken off bolt or stripped head, just drive it onto the damaged fastener, the flutes dig in and grab as you turn in reverse. They are sold in sets or individual sizes. Heat to a dull red with Oxy/Acetylene and quench immediately with cold water. That threaded nut that you see the end of the bolt through is where the slide pin bolt is secured to the bracket, the nut slides back and forth carrying the slide pin - all you need to do is rotate the nut counterclockwise and it will spin off the bolt (likely the bolt will just pop out after a half a spin, it's just floating there). If you dont have a welder, one of these extractors (in the correct size) will probably get the job done. Favorite method, used on Fordson tractor wheel nuts and similar. Also be careful of finishes around the work area, a welder, even a mig can do damage. For the really stubborn stuff a mig welder is a godsend but you have to understand when you go down this rout the bolt, stud or whatever will be unusable. Sometimes an impact driver works wonders on smaller diameter fasteners, it doesn’t apply too much torque preventing breakage but hits it repeatedly which can break the corrosion’s grip. Be conscious of the diameter of the threaded parts a 6mm m/s bolt will not survive the attention of a 3/4″ socket and 3′ breaker bar. If I’m planning to work at the thing on say Saturday I will do this each evening from Wednesday. If you can heat the item normally by running the engine or taking it for a run do so and as soon as your back spray liberally with release oil of your choice and let it cool completely, overnight if possible. Cheap sockets or wrenches make rounded corners almost certain. Firstly make sure your tools are a good, tight fit on the fastener. I’ve spent a lifetime fixing, restoring and repairing old cars, bikes and tractors and corroded in bolts and studs are a constant pain. If your brake caliper bolt snapped, cracked, or broke inside the Caliper of your Chrysler or Dodge, then this video shows you how to remove the bad bolt and.
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